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Audi (อาวดี้) ประเทศไทยนำ Audi TT Coupé (อาวดี้ ทีที คูเป้) และ Audi TT Roadster (อาวดี้ ทีที
Pros: Audis are a status symbol to certain groups of people, so if that’s something you need, an Audi could fill that hole. Audis are by far the least ugly of the current German cars (not that hard to do right now in my opinion). Audis perform well and look great when new. Yes, the 0–60 times are good, the handling is nice, and the interiors look nice. Cons: Audis are a symbol of poor financial decision making (see below). Audis depreciate very, very quickly. A new Audi will lose at least 50% of its value in the first five years. That $50,000 new car is really costing you $75,000 if you hold onto it for five years, yikes. Audis are not durable, nor are they reliable. The durability comes into play when the interior peels and falls apart on you, the fluid filled bushings blow out, and the interior leather wears. There are cars that are worse than an Audi, but the buyer of an Audi doesn’t expect their car to wear like a Chevy Malibu. Reliability is pretty self explanatory. These cars are absolute nightmares over 70,000 miles (if you get there) with the exception of European made diesels with manual transmissions. While there are plenty of fanboys out there who say “you have to keep up with maintenance”, this doesn’t cover much of what actually goes wrong with these cars. One example is the mechanical fuel pump driven by the camshaft on some Audi engines. A friend of the family who is a VW tech recommends pulling the fuel pump and replacing the cam follower at every oil change, otherwise you’re risking serious damage to that particular engine. A high school friend had that exact damage happen to his Q5 under warranty and Audi wouldn’t perform the repairs. There’s no factory recommended replacement interval with this part, so “keeping up” means obsessively reading Audi forums and making a long list of what you need to do to keep the car from crapping out on you. There are also the notorious early GDI engines that clog themselves with carbon because there’s no gas sprayed over the intake valves. So you have to strip down the engine to expose all of the intake valves, then rotate the engine and blast each pair of intake valves with ground walnut shells when they are shut. This is something that has to be done every 60,000-ish miles and really screws up performance as the engine chokes for air. The same friend with the Q5 is now looking to trade it because the crank vs. camshaft sensors indicate that his timing chain is nearing failure. Timing chains are used instead of timing belts because of very, very long service life, but his car has about 60,000 miles on it now; a timing belt would’ve lasted longer! A neighbor I know bought a used A8 and the automatic transmission failed very early (before 50K). The dealership put in a new one and it locked up on the highway as he was driving it home from said dealership. If you have to have an Audi, just lease it! You’ll look cool without losing so much money, and when someone like me makes fun of you for your terrible decision making, you can put me in my place by telling me that you leased it.
I’ll preface by mentioning that I’ve driven nearly 2 million kilometers in a variety of American, Japanese, British, French, German and Swedish cars. My father was a mechanic. My brother was service manager for both Toyota and VW dealerships. I’ve had VW cars and vans and still own the last VW truck sold in North America (bought new in Oct. ‘92), we’ve had 2 A6 wagons, 1 A6 twin-turbo sedan with 6-speed manual, I’m driving an A4 Quattro Avant now, and I’ve also owned Mercedes S-Class, and I have a ’93 300SEC Cabrio (the last year that they were hand-built by Karmann, with global production less than 1,000 units). If you are talking about Audis built in the last 20 years, the answer is YES they are reliable — provided that you perform the maintenance needed. If you have a turbo engine, such as the 1.8t or 2.0t (or TDI) then you must spend the $$$ for the approved oil. If you think you are saving $$$ by using normal oil, you will find that the oil is cooked as it goes through the glowing-hot turbo and turns into goo, and you will discover VW/Audi’s infamous “sludge problem”. The sludge problem is not a vehicle problem. It is an owner problem. Putting in cheap oil will not save money. Our 1998 A6 wagon (that was the old style, the sedans changed in ‘98, but wagons weren’t updated till ‘99) was purchased with > 200,000 MILES on it. My 2000 A6 2.7t had 170,000 miles on it. My wife’s second A6 wagon, a 2001, came from Utah with 168,000 miles on it. And the 2006 A4 was bought in Vancouver BC with 117,000 kms (due for a timing belt) and rattling like a diesel because it had no oil-pressure due to sludge, because the idiot dealer that bought it at the auction did a quick $29 oil-change on it. (the 2.0t takes oil that is normally CAD$17/litre but it comes on sale at Canadian Tire a few times a year for half that price). The cars are supremely reliable and parts are dirt-cheap online. But they CAN be expensive to fix if something breaks, and they are heavy so things will wear faster than a Japanese tin-can, so I’ll provide some advice for those looking at buying a European car in general, and Audi specifically: SERVICE: Take the car to the dealer while it is under warranty. But once the warranty is over, stay away from the dealer. They are too expensive. Find “the local guy” for your make of car (there’s at least one, in nearly every place) where people lineup to get their car serviced. THIS APPLIES TO EVERY BRAND OF CAR! (not including exotics) AVOID: the 1990s to mid 2000s V6 engines due to the high cost of timing belt replacements. Avoid the V8 due to the high cost of everything!! The 4-cyl. turbo engines, and the later V6 with the timing chain are your preferred engine. (and any version of the TDI diesel is great too, but I’m in Canada, where those are rare). GET THE QUATTRO! That means that you get a “Real transmission” too. There are Front-wheel-drive A4 models with a CVT transmission. Most have no problem, but some fail, and they aren’t something you can fix in your back yard and will be expensive. Personally, I would avoid the CVT. (I’d go for a manual, but my wife wants an A/T even though she’s owned 5-speed cars too). Plus, you’ll get more $$$ at re-sale if the car has AWD. At least anywhere that gets snow, or has dirt roads. IF you buy a high-mileage car with Auto trans, go get the tranny fluid changed, just as a preventive maintenance thing. If you’re getting the engine oil changed, then the tranny fluid change is probably well under $100 and its cheap insurance. (I’ve done this with VW, Audi, Ford, Volvo, etc. cars. I’ve never had an A/T fail. I’m not sure it helps, but it makes me feel better knowing that my car’s transmission with 200,000 miles on it has new fluid) CHECK the FRONT SUSPENSION on A4, A6, A8 if over 150,000 miles. These are heavy cars. Like the BMW 5-series, Mercedes E-Class and S-class, the front suspension will wear faster than that of a Civic or Mazda 3 or even Golf, Jetta, A3, Beetle, etc. and the A4 and larger has (had) a “virtual link” front suspension with 4 control arms on each side, each with an inboard bushing and out-board ball-joint (yes, 8 ball-joints in the front, versus a typical American or Japanese car with 2). However, due to their popularity, there are many suppliers offering replacement parts. You don’t change the ball-joint and bushing, you just swap out the entire arm. Miele “10-piece kits” with 8 control arms and 2 tie-rods (the steering linkage) can be found online under US$500. Labour is a couple hours per side. So budget $1000 to replace the front suspension/steering components when you’re getting closer to 200,000 miles (320,000 kms). And that service requires a wheel alignment too. BTW: This is what a 2001 A6 Quattro Avant with 185,000 miles look like after spending $1k to replace the front suspension, plus $700 for an Eibach Sport Suspension kit (springs and shocks) and $520 for 17″ S6 wheels with Falken Ziex tires. My wife’s 2nd A6 in Regina Saskatchewan on our annual cross-Canada (Vancouver to Ontario) road-trip, which we completed in 2 days (cruise control @ 140 kmph across the prairies). Yes, I was stopped by the RCMP, but only once, and the constable spent over 10 minutes asking questions about the car before letting us go without a ticket :) CHECK THE MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE BEFORE BUYING. The used car lots around here have lots of Audis with around 115,000 to 120,000 kms. That’s when they are due for a timing belt ($1,500 for 4-cyl, but $3,500 for older V6), DSG fluid change, differential fluid change, radiator flush, brake-fluid flush …. around CAD$3,500 in service for the 4-cyl turbo engines! The owner sees that quotation from the service department, and says “how much is it worth as a trade-in?”. The cars get traded, and rather than do the expensive maintenance, the dealer sends them to the auction, and they land in a used-car dealership. But THE CAR NEEDING MAINTENANCE COULD BE THE BEST DEAL. If you do one thing: get the dealer to have the timing belt changed at a VW or Audi dealership, and include the receipt for the work (for warranty purposes) before you buy. Example: in 2016 I found a mint 1-owner 2006 (first year of new body, so looks “newer”) A4 2.0t Quattro Avant that’s NOT Silver on Black with all the power-memory-seats, front/rear heated seats, automatic lights and wipers, etc., but 117,000 kms. I got the VIN and checked Audi, and they had no record of the timing belt being changed (VW/Audi are on one database, so I can get a VIN for a car in Florida and check the service records for free at any Audi dealership in Canada for example … they will also print out wiring diagrams and stuff for you for free too, so you don’t need to buy manuals … important if you are importing US cars and need to modify lights to DRL). Similar cars were around $14k at other dealers. This dealer had dropped their asking price down to $12k. I bought the car for $10,500 with taxes IN, and the timing belt replaced by the VW dealer a few blocks away (the Passat and GTI had the same 2.0t engine). If I back out the taxes (12%) and $1,500 timing belt change (with new oil and filter) then the car cost me $7,875 … and now its good for another 117,000 kms. I did have to deal with the sludge. Online, VW owners in the US are spending US$1200 to have the dealer clean out the engine and install a new oil pickup. My German mechanic, Verner, (he was a BMW mechanic in Germany before immigrating to Canada) removed the oil-pan and cleaned everything out, cleaned the original oil pickup, re-installed with sealant to prevent leaks, filled it with the best synthetic oil, plus the optional Audi hi-volume oil filter for under CAD$650 including taxes. That fall, we drove the car to San Francisco, and then down the coast to San Luis Obispo just for a fun road-trip. It now has > 150,000 kms and has only had oil-changes and new tires. SUMMARY: Buying a 5 to 10 year old Audi, I get a car with 100,000 kms on it for 20% of the cost of a new one (an A4 Allroad with options like our A4 is CAD$55,000) including an investment in maintenance. Brakes are cheaper than Japanese cars and last longer. The exhaust systems will last 500,000 miles. You have to replace tires, wipers, and batteries regardless of the car, and the costs are pretty much the same. I would drive from Vancouver to Key West in this car with no hesitation (and I’ve driven that in the past, via Cape Breton Island going south, and via San Diego coming home). And I know that if I get in an accident, my chances of survival are much higher than in a common American or Japanese car. Meanwhile, I get to enjoy a superbly comfortable car with good handling, a good audio system, AWD for those rare days when we have snow, fantastic climate control, the insanely fast window defrosting typical of German (and also Volvo) cars for less than my friends buying a new Altima or Camry or Accord. Oil changes definitely cost more, but that applies to ALL turbo engines, including the new Hondas, etc. YES Audis are reliable. And they last a long time. If you don’t screw up on the maintenance.
I'm assuming that you are talking about brand new 2020 vehicles? This article has Audi winning the competition between the 2 brands: https://cars.usnews.com/cars-trucks/audi-vs-lexus However, I have my own take on this. My answer is based on a United States perspective, from a current Audi owner, and depends on the following factors: 1. Long Term Reliability (are you keeping the car beyond the warranty period?) 2. Aesthetics/Style - totally subjective, only you know what you like 3. Performance and Handling - some people just like to go fast and want responsive handling. 4. Budget - How much extra cash do you have? I would have also added a preference between a manual or automatic transmission, but as of 2020, neither brand offers a manual transmission option. Long Term Reliability Lexus is your best bet here. I own a 2015 Audi S4, which has surprisingly been reliable, but I'm not kidding myself. If I choose to keep this car a few more years, at some point, I'll need to change the timing chain, and it's going to cost me thousands. No comparable Lexus (GS-F, IS 350, RC-F) is going to cost that much to replace a timing belt. Japanese manufacturers design their cars with the assumption that the belt is a maintenance item that needs to be easily accessed for replacement. The Germans, on the other hand, require that the entire engine be dropped in order for the timing chain to be replaced. But, I digress. Lexus wins here. Aesthetics / Styling This is subjective, as everyone has their own tastes. For more details on this, please see the link I included earlier. On the Lexus side we have these 11 models: 1. 2020 RC F - Sports Coupe 2. 2020 UX - Hybrid SUV 3. 2020 RX - Small. SUV 4. 2020 LCF - Sports Coupe 5. 2020 ES - Sedan 6. 2020 LS - Sedan 7. 2020 NX - Performance SUV 8. 2020 IS - Sports Sedan 9. 2020 GX - Mid size SUV 10. 2020 LX - Large SUV 11. 2020 GS - Large Sedan On the Audi side, we have these 13 models, including 3 with no Lexus equivalent. If you want one of first 3 models, you can stop reading now. Audi is your only option. 1. 2020 R8 - Supercar. (no Lexus super car equivalent, the closest is probably the LFA and they don’t make those anymore. The LC is not a super car). 2. 2020 e-tron GT Electric SUV. (no Lexus equivalent. the UX 300E is not in the US market…yet). 3. 2020 TT - Sports Coupe. (no real Lexus equivalent) 4. 2020 RS3/S3/A3 - Small Sedan 5. 2020 S4/A4 - Midsize Sedan 6. 2020 RS5/S5/A5 - Midsize Coupe 7. 2020 RS6/S6/A6 - Sedan 8. 2020 RS7/S7/A7 - Sportback Sedan 9. 2020 A8 Horch/A8 - Large Sedan 10. 2020 SQ5/Q5 - Midsize SUV 11. 2020 RS Q8 - Performance SUV 12. 2020 Q7 - Large SUV 13. 2020 Q2 - Small SUV Both manufacturers have designed beautiful cars with great exteriors and interiors. Because styling is subjective (outside of the 3 Audis without a corresponding Lexus model that I mentioned), I call this one a tie. Performance / Handling With great all wheel handling of their sedans like the R8, S3, S4, RS5, S5, and even the car-like handling of their SUVs like the SQ5, the Germans take this category. In fact, this category is one that Audis have been recognized for over the past few decades. If you want all wheel drive and superb handling characteristics, Lexus just doesn’t measure up here. Let’s be honest, the Lexus brand is known for comfort and reliability quality first. Performance is NOT the first thing that comes to mind when you say Lexus. However, there are some exceptions. The LC500, RC-F and GS-F models have powerful engines, and can match the horsepower of some of the Audi models. But they can't match the handling. I drive an Audi S4 and I can attest that the Germans win this one. Budget Audis are expensive. Expensive to purchase, expensive to insure, and expensive to maintain. You pay a big price to have the 4 rings and there is no getting around that. Buying a Lexus is not cheap by any means either, but the maintenance costs are much less that those of an Audi. If this is a strict budget to budget comparison that includes budgeting for initial cost, insurance and maintenance (beyond the manufacturer’s warranty), Lexus wins this one. Final Verdict As much as it pains me to say this as an Audi owner, if you are planning on keeping your car more than 5 years and you care about your budget, I would have to say Lexus is your best bet. If you have money to burn and performance is a priority for you then go for the Audi.
I disagree with anyone who thinks they are money pits. A c class is the equivalent to a a4 or 3 series bmw. Kinda bottom of the barrel sedan. I dont think air ride is available on either model. All 3 cars are comparable in their own way. All are sports compacts. Styling is definitely to taste. Repair cost range similar. Nothing more than your typical toyota. Its when you jump to 5 series 7 series the audi a6 and audi a8 the electronics and technology overlap and is a nightmare to troubleshoot. If you are handy most non electrical repairs can be done rather easily and parts are affordable when NOT purchased from a dealer or autozone. They really make audis with thr mechanic in mind. Fuel pump(s) in trunk, covered vital parts for prolonged life. On most audis the entire front end is removed for engine access, theoretically it makes any other repairs at that point super accessible. Timing belts/chains are common at 100k. I would say drive one. And audi is awd standard i cant say that about the c class or any mercedes as standard or even optional on most. Lack of Awd can be a deal breaker for most enviroments.
That's a really difficult question to answer and requires a little bit more specific information. So for example if you are going to exclude the cost of any repairs that are necessary then they're probably almost the same. is this because vehicle manufacturers are really just assemblers and for example a company called ZF makes a few different kinds of Transmissions like the HP 19 and HP 24 and those are in the vast majority of all BMWs, Volkswagen all wheel drive vehicles, Audi's, Land Rovers, Jaguars, Volvo's, basically nearly every European Vehicle made from the late 90s to the current time. With a standard automatic transmission has a variation of one of those two transmissions that comes in front wheel drive, rear wheel drive, and all wheel drive configurations. They're both going to use the same suppliers for their braking system which would be Brembo, Zimmerman, Pagid, and a few others. They're both likely going to have ZF or TRW steering racks, the air, fuel, and cabin filters will be Mann, Mahle, or other similar manufacturers. Similarly with spark plugs the main companies that Automotive companies use are Bosch, NGK, ACDelco, and Denso. NGK make the best spark plugs in my opinion and so even though they're Japanese it's a rare situation where nearly all European Vehicles use NGK spark plugs rather than Bosch now. The engine electronics of both, especially if direct injection, will be made by Bosch or Siemens. The sensors will be made by the same companies, the fuel pumps will both be VDO, as well as the guages most of the time. Essentially Automotive manufacturers really only build the body and the engine of their vehicles the majority of the time and they manufacture very little of anything else. Like many other Industries at this point the vast majority of Automotive businesses that manufacturer Parts have been bought up by parent corporations and so at this point there's 10 or less major automotive corporations in the world and nearly all other brands fall under them. If we were comparing a Japanese or Korean vehicle to either these vehicles or an American vehicle then they would share far fewer Parts, however with American Vehicles especially they are using a ton of European components now as well. Both of them use Pentosin fluids for brake fluid, transmission fluid, coolant, differential oil, etc. Both of them are going to generally use Continental belts for any timing belts or accessory belts. Water pumps will be graf, geba, or Mahle. Lemforder suspension components, a Swedish company I believe supply most of the suspension components. Bilstein is generally the OEM strut provider for any performance or luxury European vehicle. The light assemblies will be Hella which I believe is owned by Bosch as well now. Interiors are often Recaro. what I think probably gives the Cayenne The Edge is the fact that the Cayenne, the Audi Q7, and the Volkswagen Touareg are all essentially the same vehicle and share many of their components. This greatly reduces the cost of Designing and Manufacturing a vehicle and if you look in the right places online for the parts it drops the cost of the parts as well. It doesn't mean they're exactly the same, for example the Cayenne will have a better Brembo braking system than the Touareg does especially the turbo version. I don't believe the Land Rover has a similar situation, however, I had a 2001 BMW X5 that was essentially a Land Rover underneath because back then BMW owned Land Rover and benefited greatly from their off-road capabilities. I have a degree in Machining as well as being a mechanic so to shed some light on parts cost basically when a manufacturer has to setup to run on New part it takes time and money to get setup to run that part and then obviously the more you run the cheaper it becomes. Not only is Land Rover sort of a niche vehicle that for sure sells less than the three models of Volkswagen Audi group products that share components with the Cayenne, I'm not going to look up the statistics but I would be willing to bet that those three models combined probably sell 10 times more vehicles than the Land Rover does. Another thing to keep in mind is if you're going to need work done you need a shop that knows that model of vehicle, depending on where you live find any Land Rover expert could be problematic other than going to the dealership. neither of these cars are vehicle that you can just roll into a major national chain like Meineke or Pep Boys and have worked on because they don't have the scan tools or the experience it will cost you much more money if you try to do this then just paying the money at the dealer because he'll throw Parts on your vehicle that are garbage aftermarket junk and end up charging you just as much money and then it won't even fix it because the parts are bad out the box or weren't even the problem in the first place. My scan tool to do BMW was $15,000 and then to add Porsche was another $15,000, that company is the only company I know of that makes a dealer equivalent Land Rover scan tool software and you guessed it it costs $15,000. The Cayenne on the other hand, although for some things does need that super expensive autologic program, does share some systems with VW and Audi and you can get a much cheaper scan tool for them from Ross-Tech: Home If I had any advice for you it would probably be to forgo the Cayenne and get the Audi or Volkswagen instead. The parts will definitely be cheaper, you can use the cheaper scan tool that I linked you above which is actually affordable, And certain models are exactly the same. For example the model that they called the V6 is actually the VR6 3.6 l which is a 15 degree Bank V6 with 1 cylinder head that is used in Volkswagen Passat, and a variant of the R32 VR6 which is actually a variance of the 2.8 VR6 is that date back to the early 1990s in Volkswagen and Audi vehicles and they're Bulletproof, they were initially designed to be diesel engines and they can support over 400 horsepower without needing any engine internal modifications done. The V8 non-turbo engine is also going to be the same engine you can get in various years of Touareg and Q7 which is a 4.2 L V8. Those engines are A variation of the 2.8 L and 2.7 turbo V6 engines used in the A4, A6, Passat, A8, and S4, in a similar manner to how Chevrolet made the 4.3 Vortec V6 using the same Pistons, rods, and other internal components that the 5.7 liter or 350 small block used. They actually use the same valves, timing Adjusters, and other components even as the 1.8 turbo. Because Volkswagen, and Porsche share so many of these designs in which the parts are often the same exact part, and if not it's the same design but we just maybe with a different timing belt length for example, drastically cuts down on the amount of problems they have. Think about it like this, the 2.8 liter V6 came out in the late 80s early 90s, even though they later went to to cams in each had instead of one, the timing belt water pump setup with the thermostat remain nearly identical when they switched to the 30 valve 2.8 liter in the late 90s, and then they made the 2.7 liter turbo which was again and identical setup with an identical valve arrangement with the exception of sodium-filled exhaust valves, and then the 4.2 liter V8 again is the same so for 30 years nearly they've been running in the same exact setup with slightly different parts but arranged exactly the same so they I have eliminated all the issues with it. You can get under any Audi carlate 90s to current as well as 98–04 Passat, and suspension setup is visually indistinguishable across the A4, A5,A6, and A8. And the A3 is identical to the Jetta, Golf, GTI, and New Beetle. They might change the spring rates warehoused if the shocks or struts are, or put larger brake rotors on but those things aren't going to cause malfunctions because it doesn't change how the stresses from driving the vehicle are absorbed by the components. So to sum it up if you can't afford the turbo Cayenne, and you're going to be buying one that has an engine that the Q7 or Touareg share, you're probably better off just buying the Audi or the Volkswagen. The portion might be slightly more impressive to some people but honestly the Q7 is still an extremely nice and impressive vehicle unless you're running with millionaires as friends. there are some expensive things about these vehicles, for example a brake job even on a Touareg is over $1,000 in Parts at wholesale cost. The center driveshaft bearing 10 to fail and you'll get a thumping or clunking noise when the wheel is turned to full lock in a parking lot that sounds like it's coming from the rear end and there are companies that make a replacement Center bearing but when I tried to just do that to a couple of customer Vehicles they ended up coming back later having failed less than a year later and I ended up having to warranty it and put the thousand-dollar drive shaft in any way. if you're buying used you absolutely should spend the $100 to have a pre-purchase inspection done at a shop that specializes in Volkswagen, Audi, and or Porsche before you buy the vehicle. I would often get customers that did not heed my advice and would be in tears in my customer room because their dad or their husband or whoever used to be a Chevy mechanic in the 80s and thought that he could do the buyer's inspection and these vehicles have almost nothing in common with other vehicles even a really good mechanic who specializes in American cars will miss a ton of things because they don't know to look for them and they're not common problems on other vehicles. Get it inspected by a German Master Tech or a shop that is very highly regarded for European vehicles and preferably German vehicles.