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audi a8 timing belt replacement cost

บทความที่เกี่ยวข้อง audi a8 timing belt replacement cost

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รีวิว Q&A audi a8 timing belt replacement cost

I have the opportunity to own a 1999 Audi A8 Quattro, should I take it?

Plan to spend 2 to 3k getting it to where it needs to be. If the timing belt hasn't been done then that's 12 to $1,800 there, and that's if the valve cover gaskets aren't leaking. If they are then doing those is going to be another four to six hundred including camshaft adjuster seals, and if those have broken plastic guides on them they're 600 a piece for two of them (though you CAN get just the shoes from Amazon or eBay for cheaper, finding a shop to install them may be difficult as it's a totally aftermarket repair). Then there's the issue with failed motor mounts and faulty control arms causing torn front outer CV boots, which will run you probably $1000 to $1400 for a control arm kit and rebooting the front axles if the joints aren't worn, and MORE if you replace the joints with OEM units on the stock axles or go with aftermarket axles which often vibrate at idle due to slop in them. And the motor mounts will cost another $1000 unless you put in aftermarket upgraded ones from JHMotorsport or similar, which will have more vibration but not fail. If the control arms, valve covers, and timing belt have been done recently you're good, but all of those basically need to be done every 100k and likely havent been. If the arms haven't been done then your tires are also likely shot. You'll need basically new tires to get it aligned afterwards or your stuck just continuing to drive it with a half-ass alignment until they wear enough to get tires, which have to be replaced all four at one time due to the all wheel drive. Maybe you'll get lucky and those things are done or you don't drive a lot of miles and it doesn't matter, it will be the most comfortable car you've ever owned probably, and one of the best handling (definitely for its size it will be, but due to the weight doesn't handle like an A4 or S4 for sure)

What are the pros and cons of an Audi car?

Pros: Audis are a status symbol to certain groups of people, so if that’s something you need, an Audi could fill that hole. Audis are by far the least ugly of the current German cars (not that hard to do right now in my opinion). Audis perform well and look great when new. Yes, the 0–60 times are good, the handling is nice, and the interiors look nice. Cons: Audis are a symbol of poor financial decision making (see below). Audis depreciate very, very quickly. A new Audi will lose at least 50% of its value in the first five years. That $50,000 new car is really costing you $75,000 if you hold onto it for five years, yikes. Audis are not durable, nor are they reliable. The durability comes into play when the interior peels and falls apart on you, the fluid filled bushings blow out, and the interior leather wears. There are cars that are worse than an Audi, but the buyer of an Audi doesn’t expect their car to wear like a Chevy Malibu. Reliability is pretty self explanatory. These cars are absolute nightmares over 70,000 miles (if you get there) with the exception of European made diesels with manual transmissions. While there are plenty of fanboys out there who say “you have to keep up with maintenance”, this doesn’t cover much of what actually goes wrong with these cars. One example is the mechanical fuel pump driven by the camshaft on some Audi engines. A friend of the family who is a VW tech recommends pulling the fuel pump and replacing the cam follower at every oil change, otherwise you’re risking serious damage to that particular engine. A high school friend had that exact damage happen to his Q5 under warranty and Audi wouldn’t perform the repairs. There’s no factory recommended replacement interval with this part, so “keeping up” means obsessively reading Audi forums and making a long list of what you need to do to keep the car from crapping out on you. There are also the notorious early GDI engines that clog themselves with carbon because there’s no gas sprayed over the intake valves. So you have to strip down the engine to expose all of the intake valves, then rotate the engine and blast each pair of intake valves with ground walnut shells when they are shut. This is something that has to be done every 60,000-ish miles and really screws up performance as the engine chokes for air. The same friend with the Q5 is now looking to trade it because the crank vs. camshaft sensors indicate that his timing chain is nearing failure. Timing chains are used instead of timing belts because of very, very long service life, but his car has about 60,000 miles on it now; a timing belt would’ve lasted longer! A neighbor I know bought a used A8 and the automatic transmission failed very early (before 50K). The dealership put in a new one and it locked up on the highway as he was driving it home from said dealership. If you have to have an Audi, just lease it! You’ll look cool without losing so much money, and when someone like me makes fun of you for your terrible decision making, you can put me in my place by telling me that you leased it.

Should I buy a Lexus or Audi?

I'm assuming that you are talking about brand new 2020 vehicles? This article has Audi winning the competition between the 2 brands: https://cars.usnews.com/cars-trucks/audi-vs-lexus However, I have my own take on this. My answer is based on a United States perspective, from a current Audi owner, and depends on the following factors: 1. Long Term Reliability (are you keeping the car beyond the warranty period?) 2. Aesthetics/Style - totally subjective, only you know what you like 3. Performance and Handling - some people just like to go fast and want responsive handling. 4. Budget - How much extra cash do you have? I would have also added a preference between a manual or automatic transmission, but as of 2020, neither brand offers a manual transmission option. Long Term Reliability Lexus is your best bet here. I own a 2015 Audi S4, which has surprisingly been reliable, but I'm not kidding myself. If I choose to keep this car a few more years, at some point, I'll need to change the timing chain, and it's going to cost me thousands. No comparable Lexus (GS-F, IS 350, RC-F) is going to cost that much to replace a timing belt. Japanese manufacturers design their cars with the assumption that the belt is a maintenance item that needs to be easily accessed for replacement. The Germans, on the other hand, require that the entire engine be dropped in order for the timing chain to be replaced. But, I digress. Lexus wins here. Aesthetics / Styling This is subjective, as everyone has their own tastes. For more details on this, please see the link I included earlier. On the Lexus side we have these 11 models: 1. 2020 RC F - Sports Coupe 2. 2020 UX - Hybrid SUV 3. 2020 RX - Small. SUV 4. 2020 LCF - Sports Coupe 5. 2020 ES - Sedan 6. 2020 LS - Sedan 7. 2020 NX - Performance SUV 8. 2020 IS - Sports Sedan 9. 2020 GX - Mid size SUV 10. 2020 LX - Large SUV 11. 2020 GS - Large Sedan On the Audi side, we have these 13 models, including 3 with no Lexus equivalent. If you want one of first 3 models, you can stop reading now. Audi is your only option. 1. 2020 R8 - Supercar. (no Lexus super car equivalent, the closest is probably the LFA and they don’t make those anymore. The LC is not a super car). 2. 2020 e-tron GT Electric SUV. (no Lexus equivalent. the UX 300E is not in the US market…yet). 3. 2020 TT - Sports Coupe. (no real Lexus equivalent) 4. 2020 RS3/S3/A3 - Small Sedan 5. 2020 S4/A4 - Midsize Sedan 6. 2020 RS5/S5/A5 - Midsize Coupe 7. 2020 RS6/S6/A6 - Sedan 8. 2020 RS7/S7/A7 - Sportback Sedan 9. 2020 A8 Horch/A8 - Large Sedan 10. 2020 SQ5/Q5 - Midsize SUV 11. 2020 RS Q8 - Performance SUV 12. 2020 Q7 - Large SUV 13. 2020 Q2 - Small SUV Both manufacturers have designed beautiful cars with great exteriors and interiors. Because styling is subjective (outside of the 3 Audis without a corresponding Lexus model that I mentioned), I call this one a tie. Performance / Handling With great all wheel handling of their sedans like the R8, S3, S4, RS5, S5, and even the car-like handling of their SUVs like the SQ5, the Germans take this category. In fact, this category is one that Audis have been recognized for over the past few decades. If you want all wheel drive and superb handling characteristics, Lexus just doesn’t measure up here. Let’s be honest, the Lexus brand is known for comfort and reliability quality first. Performance is NOT the first thing that comes to mind when you say Lexus. However, there are some exceptions. The LC500, RC-F and GS-F models have powerful engines, and can match the horsepower of some of the Audi models. But they can't match the handling. I drive an Audi S4 and I can attest that the Germans win this one. Budget Audis are expensive. Expensive to purchase, expensive to insure, and expensive to maintain. You pay a big price to have the 4 rings and there is no getting around that. Buying a Lexus is not cheap by any means either, but the maintenance costs are much less that those of an Audi. If this is a strict budget to budget comparison that includes budgeting for initial cost, insurance and maintenance (beyond the manufacturer’s warranty), Lexus wins this one. Final Verdict As much as it pains me to say this as an Audi owner, if you are planning on keeping your car more than 5 years and you care about your budget, I would have to say Lexus is your best bet. If you have money to burn and performance is a priority for you then go for the Audi.

Is it more economical to drive a Tesla than a regular luxury car?

The biggest cost in operating a car is depreciation, not fuel. The Tesla is, of course, far more economical than a gasoline car even when gasoline costs a dollar a gallon. Gasoline would have to get to 50 cents a gallon to be competitive with the cost per mile you pay driving a Tesla. But let’s go back to the depreciation issue. There's an article here that can help: 10 Cars That Depreciate Like a Stock Market Crash Many luxury cars become junk in just a very few years. Here are the ten mentioned in the article, many of which overlap the price ranges of the Tesla Roadster, Model S, and Model X: BMW 7-series (shown above) Bentley Arnage Range Rover Cadillac Escalade Aston Martin DB7 Mercedes-Benz S-Class Maserati Coupe Audi A8 Jaguar S-Type Volkswagen Phaeton In example after example, these powerful gas guzzlers go from six-figure initial prices to four-figure listings on eBay, in just a few years. Another article shows a more typical depreciation of about 80 percent of the original value in about ten years: The Most Depreciated Cars Of The Past Ten Years So is that because they are luxury cars, or is it because they are gasoline luxury cars? Or is it because they aren’t Teslas? Consider what makes a standard luxury car depreciate. The engine wears out, even with close attention to maintenance. Sliding pieces of metal explosively past one another with oil lubricant is just not something you can do forever. In an electric car, the friction of pistons in cylinders is replaced by electromagnetic force on the one moving part, the rotor. It’s really hard to wear out an electromagnetic field. That’s why electric motors last far longer than even the best gasoline engines. Then there's the corrosion of all that steel in the body. In Teslas, the body parts are made from woven carbon fiber composite in the Roadster, and aluminum and titanium in the Model S and Model X. My Roadster is four years old, and people tell me it looks like I bought it yesterday. This is a Tesla thing and not an EV thing in general, since Tesla has opted for more expensive materials that are lighter, stronger, and do not rust. What about the battery losing capacity, though? This is the one point of weakness in the depreciation of any all-electric car like the Tesla. Time will tell how much battery capacity is lost in the various Tesla models and then how much it costs to replace the battery, given the plummeting costs of lithium-ion batteries and Tesla’s Gigafactory. My own experience is that after four years and 30,000 miles, I have lost about 12 percent of my original range of 245 miles. At this rate, it could be a decade before I have less range than a brand new Nissan Leaf, and a decade from now I suspect batteries are going to be a few thousand dollars, a little like replacing an engine block. There simply is less to depreciate in an electric car. The Tesla does not have a transmission, pollution controls, an exhaust system, a fuel pump, an oil pump, drive belts, hydraulic systems, a gas tank… (which is why a Model S has room to seat five adults comfortably with huge cargo space in the trunk in back and the trunk in front). Fewer things to break or wear out. Unlike conventional luxury cars, Tesla keeps improving its cars after they are sold. Model S drivers keep getting updates that bring them closer and closer to having a self-driving car. I have the option of upgrading my Roadster driving range to 400 miles with a new battery design. Tesla is unique in this respect: their cars keep getting better after you buy one! It's a thin market and a little too soon to tell how the value of a Tesla will hold up after a few years, but I see the range of about $67,000 to $75,000 for a Model S that is three years old. That’s not much depreciation. For my Roadster, I am almost certain I can get more money than what I paid for it. Ironically, that would make the Roadster the least expensive car I’ve ever owned, even though it had the highest sticker price!

Are Audi cars reliable?

I’ll preface by mentioning that I’ve driven nearly 2 million kilometers in a variety of American, Japanese, British, French, German and Swedish cars. My father was a mechanic. My brother was service manager for both Toyota and VW dealerships. I’ve had VW cars and vans and still own the last VW truck sold in North America (bought new in Oct. ‘92), we’ve had 2 A6 wagons, 1 A6 twin-turbo sedan with 6-speed manual, I’m driving an A4 Quattro Avant now, and I’ve also owned Mercedes S-Class, and I have a ’93 300SEC Cabrio (the last year that they were hand-built by Karmann, with global production less than 1,000 units). If you are talking about Audis built in the last 20 years, the answer is YES they are reliable — provided that you perform the maintenance needed. If you have a turbo engine, such as the 1.8t or 2.0t (or TDI) then you must spend the $$$ for the approved oil. If you think you are saving $$$ by using normal oil, you will find that the oil is cooked as it goes through the glowing-hot turbo and turns into goo, and you will discover VW/Audi’s infamous “sludge problem”. The sludge problem is not a vehicle problem. It is an owner problem. Putting in cheap oil will not save money. Our 1998 A6 wagon (that was the old style, the sedans changed in ‘98, but wagons weren’t updated till ‘99) was purchased with > 200,000 MILES on it. My 2000 A6 2.7t had 170,000 miles on it. My wife’s second A6 wagon, a 2001, came from Utah with 168,000 miles on it. And the 2006 A4 was bought in Vancouver BC with 117,000 kms (due for a timing belt) and rattling like a diesel because it had no oil-pressure due to sludge, because the idiot dealer that bought it at the auction did a quick $29 oil-change on it. (the 2.0t takes oil that is normally CAD$17/litre but it comes on sale at Canadian Tire a few times a year for half that price). The cars are supremely reliable and parts are dirt-cheap online. But they CAN be expensive to fix if something breaks, and they are heavy so things will wear faster than a Japanese tin-can, so I’ll provide some advice for those looking at buying a European car in general, and Audi specifically: SERVICE: Take the car to the dealer while it is under warranty. But once the warranty is over, stay away from the dealer. They are too expensive. Find “the local guy” for your make of car (there’s at least one, in nearly every place) where people lineup to get their car serviced. THIS APPLIES TO EVERY BRAND OF CAR! (not including exotics) AVOID: the 1990s to mid 2000s V6 engines due to the high cost of timing belt replacements. Avoid the V8 due to the high cost of everything!! The 4-cyl. turbo engines, and the later V6 with the timing chain are your preferred engine. (and any version of the TDI diesel is great too, but I’m in Canada, where those are rare). GET THE QUATTRO! That means that you get a “Real transmission” too. There are Front-wheel-drive A4 models with a CVT transmission. Most have no problem, but some fail, and they aren’t something you can fix in your back yard and will be expensive. Personally, I would avoid the CVT. (I’d go for a manual, but my wife wants an A/T even though she’s owned 5-speed cars too). Plus, you’ll get more $$$ at re-sale if the car has AWD. At least anywhere that gets snow, or has dirt roads. IF you buy a high-mileage car with Auto trans, go get the tranny fluid changed, just as a preventive maintenance thing. If you’re getting the engine oil changed, then the tranny fluid change is probably well under $100 and its cheap insurance. (I’ve done this with VW, Audi, Ford, Volvo, etc. cars. I’ve never had an A/T fail. I’m not sure it helps, but it makes me feel better knowing that my car’s transmission with 200,000 miles on it has new fluid) CHECK the FRONT SUSPENSION on A4, A6, A8 if over 150,000 miles. These are heavy cars. Like the BMW 5-series, Mercedes E-Class and S-class, the front suspension will wear faster than that of a Civic or Mazda 3 or even Golf, Jetta, A3, Beetle, etc. and the A4 and larger has (had) a “virtual link” front suspension with 4 control arms on each side, each with an inboard bushing and out-board ball-joint (yes, 8 ball-joints in the front, versus a typical American or Japanese car with 2). However, due to their popularity, there are many suppliers offering replacement parts. You don’t change the ball-joint and bushing, you just swap out the entire arm. Miele “10-piece kits” with 8 control arms and 2 tie-rods (the steering linkage) can be found online under US$500. Labour is a couple hours per side. So budget $1000 to replace the front suspension/steering components when you’re getting closer to 200,000 miles (320,000 kms). And that service requires a wheel alignment too. BTW: This is what a 2001 A6 Quattro Avant with 185,000 miles look like after spending $1k to replace the front suspension, plus $700 for an Eibach Sport Suspension kit (springs and shocks) and $520 for 17″ S6 wheels with Falken Ziex tires. My wife’s 2nd A6 in Regina Saskatchewan on our annual cross-Canada (Vancouver to Ontario) road-trip, which we completed in 2 days (cruise control @ 140 kmph across the prairies). Yes, I was stopped by the RCMP, but only once, and the constable spent over 10 minutes asking questions about the car before letting us go without a ticket :) CHECK THE MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE BEFORE BUYING. The used car lots around here have lots of Audis with around 115,000 to 120,000 kms. That’s when they are due for a timing belt ($1,500 for 4-cyl, but $3,500 for older V6), DSG fluid change, differential fluid change, radiator flush, brake-fluid flush …. around CAD$3,500 in service for the 4-cyl turbo engines! The owner sees that quotation from the service department, and says “how much is it worth as a trade-in?”. The cars get traded, and rather than do the expensive maintenance, the dealer sends them to the auction, and they land in a used-car dealership. But THE CAR NEEDING MAINTENANCE COULD BE THE BEST DEAL. If you do one thing: get the dealer to have the timing belt changed at a VW or Audi dealership, and include the receipt for the work (for warranty purposes) before you buy. Example: in 2016 I found a mint 1-owner 2006 (first year of new body, so looks “newer”) A4 2.0t Quattro Avant that’s NOT Silver on Black with all the power-memory-seats, front/rear heated seats, automatic lights and wipers, etc., but 117,000 kms. I got the VIN and checked Audi, and they had no record of the timing belt being changed (VW/Audi are on one database, so I can get a VIN for a car in Florida and check the service records for free at any Audi dealership in Canada for example … they will also print out wiring diagrams and stuff for you for free too, so you don’t need to buy manuals … important if you are importing US cars and need to modify lights to DRL). Similar cars were around $14k at other dealers. This dealer had dropped their asking price down to $12k. I bought the car for $10,500 with taxes IN, and the timing belt replaced by the VW dealer a few blocks away (the Passat and GTI had the same 2.0t engine). If I back out the taxes (12%) and $1,500 timing belt change (with new oil and filter) then the car cost me $7,875 … and now its good for another 117,000 kms. I did have to deal with the sludge. Online, VW owners in the US are spending US$1200 to have the dealer clean out the engine and install a new oil pickup. My German mechanic, Verner, (he was a BMW mechanic in Germany before immigrating to Canada) removed the oil-pan and cleaned everything out, cleaned the original oil pickup, re-installed with sealant to prevent leaks, filled it with the best synthetic oil, plus the optional Audi hi-volume oil filter for under CAD$650 including taxes. That fall, we drove the car to San Francisco, and then down the coast to San Luis Obispo just for a fun road-trip. It now has > 150,000 kms and has only had oil-changes and new tires. SUMMARY: Buying a 5 to 10 year old Audi, I get a car with 100,000 kms on it for 20% of the cost of a new one (an A4 Allroad with options like our A4 is CAD$55,000) including an investment in maintenance. Brakes are cheaper than Japanese cars and last longer. The exhaust systems will last 500,000 miles. You have to replace tires, wipers, and batteries regardless of the car, and the costs are pretty much the same. I would drive from Vancouver to Key West in this car with no hesitation (and I’ve driven that in the past, via Cape Breton Island going south, and via San Diego coming home). And I know that if I get in an accident, my chances of survival are much higher than in a common American or Japanese car. Meanwhile, I get to enjoy a superbly comfortable car with good handling, a good audio system, AWD for those rare days when we have snow, fantastic climate control, the insanely fast window defrosting typical of German (and also Volvo) cars for less than my friends buying a new Altima or Camry or Accord. Oil changes definitely cost more, but that applies to ALL turbo engines, including the new Hondas, etc. YES Audis are reliable. And they last a long time. If you don’t screw up on the maintenance.

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