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5 litre audi a8

บทความที่เกี่ยวข้อง 5 litre audi a8

2021 Audi RS 5 Coupe ราคาไทยอย่างเป็นทางการ 5.99 ล้านบาท แพงไปเหรอ ดูออพชั่นซะก่อน

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Audi Q8 รถยนต์ครอสโอเวอร์ที่มาพร้อมความเป็นเอกลักษณ์สไตล์ Audi ด้วยชื่อแบรนด์ก็บ่งบอกแล้วว่าต้องหรูดูดี

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ดูเพิ่มเติม

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รีวิวโพสต์ 5 litre audi a8

The all-new Audi A8 V8, twin turbo 4.0 litre for just AED 6,900/month.Includes up to 5 years’ service plan/105K KM, 5 years unlimited mileage warranty, 5 years Roadside Assistance and 1st year registration.02 205 4444, 02 502 6510, 03 713 1666#AudiAbuDhabi #AudiAlAin

– Peki eşiniz arabayla mı çıkmıştı dışarıya?– Evet, siyah renkli bir Audi a8. Süperşarj 3.5 litre V6 silindirli motor 290 beygir. İçi geyik derisi taba renginde, Lef farları var, sağ kapıda görünür görünmez hafif bir çiziği var– Tamam beyefendi, arabanızı bulacağız, merak eyin

2005 Audi A8 4 Litre Tdi Quattro (London, Price: £5,900): Exterior Alloy Wheels Catalytic Converter. In-Car Audio ... http://bit.ly/cIsucJ

**,) RT @Cobhoza : Audi A8 W12 5.2 Litre ,

Mehmet Bey son 1 haftada Ankara’da 5 farklı valiye ait yeni Audi A8 L makam arabası gördüm, 2 tanesi zırhlı idi, 3.0 Litre dizel motorlu bu araçların satış fiyatı 1.730.000 TL, zırhlı olanları ise 4.000.000 TL. Neden kimse budelice savurganlığa dur demiyorHaram, zıkkım olsun

(/_\) "@Cobhoza: Audi A8 W12 5.2 Litre ,"

That car >>>> my whole life RT @Cobhoza: Audi A8 W12 5.2 Litre ,

A blanket thinking that all SUVs are bad isn't particularly accurate. Many are not the big 2.5/3 litre ones of old. Toyota Rav 4 for example are mostly sold as hybrid now. Some high end cars are 3 litre diesels such as BMW 530/730, Audi A8 etc. Maybe engine size is your issue?

AUDI A8 (5 Litre TDI)Love this massive #audi #snazzynaz #youtuber #carspotter #engineer #uberdriver @ Sheffield

รีวิว Q&A 5 litre audi a8

Are Audi cars reliable?

I’ll preface by mentioning that I’ve driven nearly 2 million kilometers in a variety of American, Japanese, British, French, German and Swedish cars. My father was a mechanic. My brother was service manager for both Toyota and VW dealerships. I’ve had VW cars and vans and still own the last VW truck sold in North America (bought new in Oct. ‘92), we’ve had 2 A6 wagons, 1 A6 twin-turbo sedan with 6-speed manual, I’m driving an A4 Quattro Avant now, and I’ve also owned Mercedes S-Class, and I have a ’93 300SEC Cabrio (the last year that they were hand-built by Karmann, with global production less than 1,000 units). If you are talking about Audis built in the last 20 years, the answer is YES they are reliable — provided that you perform the maintenance needed. If you have a turbo engine, such as the 1.8t or 2.0t (or TDI) then you must spend the $$$ for the approved oil. If you think you are saving $$$ by using normal oil, you will find that the oil is cooked as it goes through the glowing-hot turbo and turns into goo, and you will discover VW/Audi’s infamous “sludge problem”. The sludge problem is not a vehicle problem. It is an owner problem. Putting in cheap oil will not save money. Our 1998 A6 wagon (that was the old style, the sedans changed in ‘98, but wagons weren’t updated till ‘99) was purchased with > 200,000 MILES on it. My 2000 A6 2.7t had 170,000 miles on it. My wife’s second A6 wagon, a 2001, came from Utah with 168,000 miles on it. And the 2006 A4 was bought in Vancouver BC with 117,000 kms (due for a timing belt) and rattling like a diesel because it had no oil-pressure due to sludge, because the idiot dealer that bought it at the auction did a quick $29 oil-change on it. (the 2.0t takes oil that is normally CAD$17/litre but it comes on sale at Canadian Tire a few times a year for half that price). The cars are supremely reliable and parts are dirt-cheap online. But they CAN be expensive to fix if something breaks, and they are heavy so things will wear faster than a Japanese tin-can, so I’ll provide some advice for those looking at buying a European car in general, and Audi specifically: SERVICE: Take the car to the dealer while it is under warranty. But once the warranty is over, stay away from the dealer. They are too expensive. Find “the local guy” for your make of car (there’s at least one, in nearly every place) where people lineup to get their car serviced. THIS APPLIES TO EVERY BRAND OF CAR! (not including exotics) AVOID: the 1990s to mid 2000s V6 engines due to the high cost of timing belt replacements. Avoid the V8 due to the high cost of everything!! The 4-cyl. turbo engines, and the later V6 with the timing chain are your preferred engine. (and any version of the TDI diesel is great too, but I’m in Canada, where those are rare). GET THE QUATTRO! That means that you get a “Real transmission” too. There are Front-wheel-drive A4 models with a CVT transmission. Most have no problem, but some fail, and they aren’t something you can fix in your back yard and will be expensive. Personally, I would avoid the CVT. (I’d go for a manual, but my wife wants an A/T even though she’s owned 5-speed cars too). Plus, you’ll get more $$$ at re-sale if the car has AWD. At least anywhere that gets snow, or has dirt roads. IF you buy a high-mileage car with Auto trans, go get the tranny fluid changed, just as a preventive maintenance thing. If you’re getting the engine oil changed, then the tranny fluid change is probably well under $100 and its cheap insurance. (I’ve done this with VW, Audi, Ford, Volvo, etc. cars. I’ve never had an A/T fail. I’m not sure it helps, but it makes me feel better knowing that my car’s transmission with 200,000 miles on it has new fluid) CHECK the FRONT SUSPENSION on A4, A6, A8 if over 150,000 miles. These are heavy cars. Like the BMW 5-series, Mercedes E-Class and S-class, the front suspension will wear faster than that of a Civic or Mazda 3 or even Golf, Jetta, A3, Beetle, etc. and the A4 and larger has (had) a “virtual link” front suspension with 4 control arms on each side, each with an inboard bushing and out-board ball-joint (yes, 8 ball-joints in the front, versus a typical American or Japanese car with 2). However, due to their popularity, there are many suppliers offering replacement parts. You don’t change the ball-joint and bushing, you just swap out the entire arm. Miele “10-piece kits” with 8 control arms and 2 tie-rods (the steering linkage) can be found online under US$500. Labour is a couple hours per side. So budget $1000 to replace the front suspension/steering components when you’re getting closer to 200,000 miles (320,000 kms). And that service requires a wheel alignment too. BTW: This is what a 2001 A6 Quattro Avant with 185,000 miles look like after spending $1k to replace the front suspension, plus $700 for an Eibach Sport Suspension kit (springs and shocks) and $520 for 17″ S6 wheels with Falken Ziex tires. My wife’s 2nd A6 in Regina Saskatchewan on our annual cross-Canada (Vancouver to Ontario) road-trip, which we completed in 2 days (cruise control @ 140 kmph across the prairies). Yes, I was stopped by the RCMP, but only once, and the constable spent over 10 minutes asking questions about the car before letting us go without a ticket :) CHECK THE MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE BEFORE BUYING. The used car lots around here have lots of Audis with around 115,000 to 120,000 kms. That’s when they are due for a timing belt ($1,500 for 4-cyl, but $3,500 for older V6), DSG fluid change, differential fluid change, radiator flush, brake-fluid flush …. around CAD$3,500 in service for the 4-cyl turbo engines! The owner sees that quotation from the service department, and says “how much is it worth as a trade-in?”. The cars get traded, and rather than do the expensive maintenance, the dealer sends them to the auction, and they land in a used-car dealership. But THE CAR NEEDING MAINTENANCE COULD BE THE BEST DEAL. If you do one thing: get the dealer to have the timing belt changed at a VW or Audi dealership, and include the receipt for the work (for warranty purposes) before you buy. Example: in 2016 I found a mint 1-owner 2006 (first year of new body, so looks “newer”) A4 2.0t Quattro Avant that’s NOT Silver on Black with all the power-memory-seats, front/rear heated seats, automatic lights and wipers, etc., but 117,000 kms. I got the VIN and checked Audi, and they had no record of the timing belt being changed (VW/Audi are on one database, so I can get a VIN for a car in Florida and check the service records for free at any Audi dealership in Canada for example … they will also print out wiring diagrams and stuff for you for free too, so you don’t need to buy manuals … important if you are importing US cars and need to modify lights to DRL). Similar cars were around $14k at other dealers. This dealer had dropped their asking price down to $12k. I bought the car for $10,500 with taxes IN, and the timing belt replaced by the VW dealer a few blocks away (the Passat and GTI had the same 2.0t engine). If I back out the taxes (12%) and $1,500 timing belt change (with new oil and filter) then the car cost me $7,875 … and now its good for another 117,000 kms. I did have to deal with the sludge. Online, VW owners in the US are spending US$1200 to have the dealer clean out the engine and install a new oil pickup. My German mechanic, Verner, (he was a BMW mechanic in Germany before immigrating to Canada) removed the oil-pan and cleaned everything out, cleaned the original oil pickup, re-installed with sealant to prevent leaks, filled it with the best synthetic oil, plus the optional Audi hi-volume oil filter for under CAD$650 including taxes. That fall, we drove the car to San Francisco, and then down the coast to San Luis Obispo just for a fun road-trip. It now has > 150,000 kms and has only had oil-changes and new tires. SUMMARY: Buying a 5 to 10 year old Audi, I get a car with 100,000 kms on it for 20% of the cost of a new one (an A4 Allroad with options like our A4 is CAD$55,000) including an investment in maintenance. Brakes are cheaper than Japanese cars and last longer. The exhaust systems will last 500,000 miles. You have to replace tires, wipers, and batteries regardless of the car, and the costs are pretty much the same. I would drive from Vancouver to Key West in this car with no hesitation (and I’ve driven that in the past, via Cape Breton Island going south, and via San Diego coming home). And I know that if I get in an accident, my chances of survival are much higher than in a common American or Japanese car. Meanwhile, I get to enjoy a superbly comfortable car with good handling, a good audio system, AWD for those rare days when we have snow, fantastic climate control, the insanely fast window defrosting typical of German (and also Volvo) cars for less than my friends buying a new Altima or Camry or Accord. Oil changes definitely cost more, but that applies to ALL turbo engines, including the new Hondas, etc. YES Audis are reliable. And they last a long time. If you don’t screw up on the maintenance.

What is the oldest model car that you have ever owned?

Audi A8,it was 17 years old in 2013,had a 4.2 litre V8 petrol engine,4 wheel drive and had 4 electric variable heated seats,and a tilt/slide sunroof,and I got her upto 166 mph briefly one time as she didn’t have a limiter on her,when you put your foot down,you watch one needle going to the right in speed,and the other needle going to the left fuel wise,and it only cost to buy £700,and the best thing was it was cheaper on road tax then a mate’s 2.0 litre Mercedes,he was livid,he paying £235,I only paying £185,but I got just over double his engine size,and more kit on my car,his car was only 8 years younger then mine. My current A8 is 15 years old,only a 3.0 litre V6 turbo diesel,not as fast,but better Mpg,and the insurance works out cheaper then a friends 5 series BMW.

Why do German cars have electronic speed limiters?

The reason is fairly similar to the question why there used to be a voluntary 100-hp limit for motorcycles in Germany (BMW didn’t make anything with more than 70 hp at the time). In the 70s, motorcycle engines became increasingly powerful, in fact too powerful for the frames they were installed in. Kawasaki’s Z900 had a reputation for being a handful to drive, so did their 500 H1 and 750 H2 two-stroke triples. Then came the first Honda GL 1000 Gold Wing, which was intended to be a touring motorcycle, but with 82 hp was marketed as something sporty. Due to the weight and the rather unsporty suspension, the GL 1000 was plagued by weaving, even reinforced by handlebar-attached aftermarket fairings. A number of accidents followed, after which the legislative started making noises about putting a stop to this development. Honda had the 105-hp six-cylinder CBX ready, Kawasaki countered with the 120-hp, six-cylinder Z1300, Yamaha had stopped themselves at 95 hp for the XS 1100. The importers got together and decided to limit the engines to 100 hp to keep the government from doing something likely to be stupid, which remained until 1999. When national road homologation was replaced by an EU-wide one, the voluntary 100-hp limit in Germany disappeared. It was not illegal to own, say, an unrestricted Yamaha V-max with 145 hp, self-import or buying a “grey” import was always possible, but road registration was made difficult, and the whole thing not encouraged. After this lengthy introduction, back to the topic at hand. A bit over 30 years ago the top speed region above 240 km/h, until then the domain of high-end sports cars from Ferrari, Lamborghini or Porsche, came in reach of somewhat normal cars. BMW’s first E28-based M5 was, if I remember right, the first German four-door saloon with a topspeed above 250 km/h (251, but above is above), not using aftermarket performance enhancements. In 1986 the E32 7-series entered the market, with the 735i reaching a topspeed of 235 km/h, and one year later followed the 300-hp 750i, featuring Germany’s first post-war V12 engine, and the first production saloon limited to 250 km/h. This more or less set off a performance race, yet the manufacturers sat together like the motorcycle importers 10 years earlier and decided to keep their production cars limited to 250 km/h before politicians interfered with stupid ideas. As we all know, the M5 and 750i pretty much started a performance race, with Mercedes going after the M5’s straight-six 286 hp (E28) or 315 hp (E34) engine by stuffing the four-valve, five-litre V8 into the 500 E (later E 500), and installing a six-litre, 408-hp V12 in the W140 600 SE/SEL. Today the top-end saloons of BMW 5 and 7 series, Audi A6 and A8, Mercedes E- and S-class all have above 500 hp, but the 250-km/h-limit remains. As for the government doing stupid things, that is a very real threat. Around 25 years ago some newspapers wrote articles about a certain feature in electronic engine management systems, wide-open-throttle enrichment. This reduced the effectiveness of catalytic converters from around 98% to 50%. What with politicians not being the most knowledgeable people, they started making demands into open microphones about (I remember this one so well because it made me laugh a lot while being scarily idiotic) “removing the catalytic converter switches”. As a result, manufactures disabled the feature, again to prevent harebrained regulations. This is why the Mercedes V12 dropped from 408 to 394 hp, and the 5-litre V8 from 326 to 320 hp.

Which one is better: Audi or BMW?

Audi is the better brand and here are some reasons why: BMW was once the iconic, pinnacle of luxury vehicles but that mantle has since been taken by Mercedes and Audi. Audi SUVs are superior to BMW. The rare 6.0 litre Q7 offers slight competition to the more dominant X6, but other BMW SUVs pale in comparison to Audi. Other Q7 variants sell much more than the X5, and are superior as drivers cars, as well as other features such as bootspace and engine efficiency, while the X3 and X1 are barely seen (unlike the Q5). The SQ5 (sporty Q5) and the RSQ3 - a 367 hp bomb that does 0–100 in 3 seconds are another variants that Audi offers that BMW does not compete in. Audi makes drivers cars. Drivers enjoy Audi more than BMW, citing better response, handling, and smoothness as some reasons. Driving is an important aspect to consider when evaluating cars, so this is definitely a plus point for Audi. The quattro all wheel drive system (standard on most cars) by Audi has also been preferred by many drivers over BMWs approach. Some BMWs are overpriced. This is not a flaw of the product itself, but the brand, which seems to place an excessive value on their product. Audi, Lexus, and Jaguar all make similar and better cars for lower prices than BMW. In sport categories, there isn’t even a comparison to be made. The TT trumps the Z4, although neither have a large demand. BMW recently launched the i8, their sole true competitor in the sports market. However, Audi has multiple sports series - the S series (a mix of sport and luxury), and the RS series (comfortable cars with ridiculous sport packages). Finally, the icing on the cake - the R8, which BMW do not really have a competitor for. Audis basic models are better. While some argue that the 7 series is better than the Audi A8 (I am not one of those people), little can be said for BMWs more basic models. The A3 - A7 range (3–6 series for BMW) definitely belongs to Audi, who have a greater market share and have made the cars more luxurious than their BMW counterparts. In response to the success of the Audi A7, BMW launched the 6 series, which has flopped dramatically, since it is merely a confused hybrid of sport and luxury, a hunk of junk. These are just some reasons why Audi is better than BMW.

Car Classifications: What is D-Segment in cars?

The classification of car segment in India as currently done by SIAM is on the basis of the length of the vehicle (Passenger car segment) Micro: Seats upto-4, Length Normally <3200 mm, Body Style-Hatchback, Engine Displacement Normally upto 0.8 Litre - eg Nano Mini: Seats upto-5, Length Normally <3600 mm, Body Style-Hatchback, Engine Displacement Normally upto 1.0 Litre - eg Santro, Eon, Spark, Alto, Wagon R Compact: Seats upto-5, Length Normally between 3600 - 4000 mm, Body Style-Sedan/Estate/Hatch/Notchback, Engine Displacement Normally upto 1.4 Litre - eg Swift, Ritz, Micra, Brio, Polo, i20 Super Compact: Seats upto-5, Length Normally between 4000 - 4250 mm, Body Style-Sedan/Estate/Hatch/Notchback, Engine Displacement Normally upto 1.6 Litre - eg. Accent, Dzire, Etios Mid-Size:Seats upto-5, Length Normally between 4250 - 4500 mm, Body Style-Sedan/Estate/Hatch/Notchback, Engine Displacement Normally upto 1.6 Litre - eg. Manza, Verna, City, Sunny Executive:Seats upto-5, Length Normally between 4500 - 4700 mm, Body Style-Sedan/Estate/Notchback, Engine Displacement Normally upto 2 Litre - eg. Cruze, Laura, Corolla, Fluence Premium:Seats upto-5, Length Normally between 4700 - 5000 mm, Body Style-Sedan/Estates, Engine Displacement Normally upto 3 Litre - eg Accord, Teana, Sonata, Camry Luxury:Seats upto-5, Length Normally Over 5000 mm, Body Style-Sedan/Estates, Engine Displacement Normally upto 5 Litre - eg Audi A8, Mercedes S Class, BMW 7 series

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