obd ii problem
บทความที่เกี่ยวข้อง obd ii problem
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รีวิวโพสต์ obd ii problem
"You can diagnose the engine problem and fix it simply yourself" Excellent "Use your OBD II scanner..." WTF? https://t.co/n9Mq7NQqMU
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If your vehicle is newer than 1995/96, it is equipped with OBD II diagnostics. Even up to 2021 models, ODB II is still the protocol to diagnose vehicle problems when that pesky “check engine” light comes on. #codes #coding #localnews #localnewspaper https://t.co/i6BpOOD6Zj
OBD II Connector No Power: Howdy from NYC, Car- 1999 E36 M3, 146K miles- mostly stock. Problem - no power .. http://bit.ly/Z4VHw
@gimpbully nice... OBD II actually helped pinpoint a problem for once instead of causing one on its own! Coolant or intake temp sensor?
AMOC Forum Update Re: 2002 Vanquish fuel guage problem: I'm still wiating on my OBD II reader, but I'm down below ... http://bit.ly/cyN8BP
Are Honda vehicles after 1995 OBD II compliant for reading codes for check engine light problems?: http://bit.ly/jkqvNe
รีวิว Q&A obd ii problem
Can I rewire OBD-II wires into a RS232 female connector without running into signal problems? I plan to do an "RS232 male - OBD-II female" adapter afterwards.
It depends as it would seem. Looking on wikipedia about the 2 protocols it seems that ford and gm use different bit rates. Ford using 41kbps and gm using 10.4kbps. Looking at the rs232 it lists 20kbps at 50 foot, the maximum viable length. So you could probably use it for a gm car no problem but ford you’d probably have to keep the cable more like 12 foot to get away with it. Hope that helps.
Is Garmin's constant power cable “OBD-II” for dash cam a better solution to battery problems?
It depends what battery problems you have. The Garmin OBD-II has 12v constantly supplied by the OBD port, but can detect when the engine is off and so shut down the power to the cameras. It should not draw more than a few milliamps, when left permanently connected. It may be better, only because it is convenient and depending on where your OBD socket is, can be a neat installation without complex wiring. And be removed without trace.
Will a vehicles diagnostic test (OBD II) always show engine problems? I am incredibly paranoid. My car made an odd noise & now I'm afraid my engine is failing. Im going to do an oil change in 3 days & it seems to be running just fine.
The OBD2 that I believe you are referring to is actually an evolving process that gets better every year. It can come pretty close to telling you some things in these late models. So the year, make, model has so much to do with the answer. But the computer has and always will have it's built in limitations. And that is human programming. The OBD2 OBD2 scanner can tell us everything the computer sees but that's it. It can only see what it is programmed to see. And there are many things that can go wrong mechanically that nobody ever thought of yet. So things do break and the computer has no idea why. If in your case, the noise sounded pretty unusual for your car but went away and you can't make it happen. I would just make sure I had plenty of antifreeze and oil in it. That is the life blood of your car. It can survive a lot of failures and be easily fixed except for an overheat. That can do Incredible hidden damage. Just making sure it has antifreeze and oil before you drive it can save you an engine. But if you saw the “Check Engine Light” come on for at least ten seconds, there is a good chance there is a code stored for you whatever reason the light came on. But many can erase the trouble code after so many engine starts without a failure. So you would have to have that scanned soon after the light came on. As for just making a lot of racket out of the blue and not doing it again, it makes me think it was starving for oil just for a second. That happens a lot when you change engine oil and put a new empty oil filter on. It takes the engine running for a good couple seconds to fill that oil filter and many engines will make a lot of noise from hydraulic tensioners around the timing chain. Some older engines would also knock like hell for a second until they get enough oil pressure. But you should always have oil pressure in reserve with the oil pickup buried in oil. Only if you run real low should you suffer the similar symptom and we all hope there is plenty of oil in that motor. Other than that, I can't think of anything else that might come from inside the engine. You never know when a squirrel is going to leave a stick in your belts. Anything is possible. If it hasn't made the noise since and your motor has plenty of blood, just relax and forget about it.
What is a common feature in a car but most people don’t know what it’s used for?
In almost all cars less than about 20 years old - I guess the OBD-II connector is something that most people don’t know about. It’s down below the steering wheel - usually to the left of it. There is an electrical connector - about a couple of inches long by a half inch wide - possibly behind a plastic cover of some kind. This is where you can plug in a diagnostic computer to talk to the car’s computer to find out how things are going. In the past, this was of little interest to 99% of car owners - because the “Scanner” you need to talk to your car was an expensive gadget. BUT: The price of these things has plummeted lately - and for just $5 Walmart will sell you a Bluetooth interface that you plug into the car and which you can “pair” with your phone. A bunch of different free phone Apps are out there. The good ones let you do things like reading out a fault code when some warning light comes on to tell you what it ACTUALLY means - you can do things like turn off the “Oil Change Needed Soon” light when you replaced the oil yourself. You can also access hundreds of other things that don’t show up on your dashboard. One example - my MINI Cooper popped up a yellow (non-urgent) Check Engine light - normally (if you’re in any way SANE!) you’d immediately take it someplace to get the problem checked out. But using the OBD-II port bluetooth gizmo - I was able to read the ACTUAL error code - and google it to see what it truly means. It turns out that this particular error code often comes on if you don’t tighten your gas cap enough - which is an emissions problem - which is why the car complained. Being able to just tighten the gas cap and zero out the error code probably saved me a trip to car dealership and god-knows-what charges for checking the error code and so forth. It’s REALLY worth $5 of anyone’s money to own such a thing. Interestingly, it’s now become legal to have electric cars WITHOUT the OBD-II port - because OBD is primarily intended to detect emissions problems - and my Tesla doesn’t have one.
When will we see the return of cars that are easy to maintain- i.e., the backyard mechanic?
Mostly, today. I would propose that modern cars (largely those produce since the mid 1990’s) are actually just as easy to maintain as cars of yore. Indeed, in some ways they are easier. A combination of an OBD-II scan tool and a big of google and youtube will show you that most common vehicle problems are often quite easy to solve and require only a modest set of tools. If you refuse to buy a scan tool, well, that’s your own fault. There was a period of time between the early 1970’s and the mid 1990’s where cars were indeed hard to fix. Such cars had abandoned the simplicity of ages past and weren’t computerized yet, instead having a maze of vacuum lines and questionably engineered systems to try and be fuel efficient. But those days are gone. The skills may be different, but if you have even a modest ability to learn, you can largely fix most problems on your own car. And you’ll likely have far fewer problems to begin with.
Is it okay to leave an OBD-II scanner on a car?
I have a cheap wifi-based OBD-II scanner I use to read codes from my Toyota, and gather realtime information. I used to leave it in all the time. It's fun to calibrate the reader app to watch my fuel economy as I drive, and use it as another gauge on my dash (one of the primary reasons people think I'm too slow). At some point I noticed the scanner doesn't turn off with the car, but stays on at all times when plugged in. In theory this could drain the battery but the output from the OBD-II port is so small I have had no issues. This generally doesn't cause problems. But my scanner only does very basic reads and functions. A mechanic once kept his scanner plugged into my car for me to watch until I passed smog. No issues from that either. Some professional scanners cause issues while driving. I’m not sure why, but I think it's because they access more information and possibly change items on the ECU while reading.
How do I turn off a check engine light to pass emissions?
It’s easy enough to erase fault codes with an OBD-II scanner and a cellphone. Google that and you’ll find them ranging from $6 to $60 depending on convenience. But there’s a problem. The car flags when something has been erased - and the inspection station can detect that - and will deny you a sticker until you’ve driven some distance to allow the car to refresh it…I think that’s 100 miles or something. So yes you can erase the light - but it won’t get you to pass emissions - it’ll instead be a guaranteed fail.
Which car should you never buy used?
Most cars out of a used dealer lot. They’re either overpriced in comparison to a private party or not well taken care of. Their end goal is to transact for a profit, not help you get into a decent vehicle. Lemon law applies to new(er) cars, not old ones (2013 and up in California as of writing). Salvaged vehicles you know nothing about repairing. If the owner’s name according to his driver’s license does not match the registered owner’s name on the title. A number of things could be happening at this point, maybe fraudulent identification, maybe stolen car. The first year of any generation of a vehicle. For example, the 2004 Prius is infamous for head gasket issues, 2005–2009 are fine. 2010 Prius is infamous for problems with the coolant pump. The 2011–2015 are fine. 2016 Prius had issues with the axle on one side (usually driver side). All other models are fine. Cars that have had too many owners. When purchasing a vehicle, go over the Carfax or Autocheck yourself. Ask for the VIN. See how many owners it has had and how frequently it changes. Ask questions. If story does not add up, avoid it. A car with mysterious gaps in the Carfax for servicing. If there are prolonged periods of time between service, it doesn’t necessarily mean that the car has had an odometer rollback or gone unserviced, but it would always be wise to ask questions as to why. Any car with an owner that won’t let you scan the car with your own OBD II reader. Often times owners can reset the car’s engine light before a sale. Any owner that places the obligation of smogging the car on you. Cars need to be smogged before they are sold, at least in California. This is done by the seller. If this is happening, the person most likely knows something is wrong with the car before they sell it to you. Sometimes private parties will cut off part of the ECU that lets the driver know about issues (ABS lights, Engine lights, etc). If you notice your OBD II is not functioning correctly, it’s usually because they are hiding something. Most used cars with massive depreciation. If you look at a BMW M series from around 5–7 years ago, you’ll find them at 30k or below. This is the same with Maserati, and the same with companies like Range Rover. It’s because these cars do not hold up to years of abuse and mid-range mileage. The problems really begin out of warranty. There is a great reason they are so cheap. Unless you know about the repairs and the issues yourself, stay away. Any car with panels changed or frame bent. Especially if it has a clean title. This car has major damage, and deserves a salvage title that the owner is trying to pass off as clean. Check the gaps of the car along the panels. Make sure it is all even and flush. Look for original paint. If it looks like things are replaced with off-looking paint or non-original paint, the car has had some damage or been hit. People will hide accidents for the sake of maintaining a clean title sometimes. Again, this doesn’t mean minor dings and dents. Used cars will have these, and it is important to distinguish the cosmetic from mechanical and structural soundness. Anyone who is dropping the price of the car drastically for you without any reason. If the car is selling well-below market, and it seems too good to be true, it usually is. An owner who keeps good care of their car is usually proud of it and understands the value of something well-maintained. Used car owners that are trying to transact over PayPal or Moneygram or a wire of some kind. This should be a no-brainer, but just in case, don’t do this. Ever. I’m sure there are quite a few more I have learned over the years. I’ll add them as they come to mind. As you can see, the usual suspects are not listed. High mileage doesn’t have to be a concern always. I have a 2007 Prius with nearly 300,000 miles and it has had nothing except for routine maintenance. The battery capacity is still at 95%. Other, less obvious things are usually what used car sellers try to get away with.
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